"The exquisite pleasure of a simple piece of boiled meat!"
"AFTER endless luncheons in smart restaurants, endless tastings, endless talk about food," James Beard wrote as he approached the end of a long life, "one inevitably develops a certain antipathy toward elegant cuisine. How I have longed, after a week of rich and complicated foods, for the exquisite pleasure of a simple piece of boiled meat!"I'm with him, like a lot of people all over the world, epicureans and mere chowhounds alike. Escoffier, who ate more fancy food than Beard, described the French boil-up pot-au-feu as "the symbol of family life, a comfortable, thoroughly bourgeois dish that nothing may dethrone."